General Pump & Well System FAQ’s

What is involved in repairing or replacing my submersible well pump?

The first part of the process involves identifying a problem. Perhaps the water pressure or flow are low indicating that the pump is worn out. Perhaps you have a very high electrical bill because the pipe going down to the submersible well pump is made of metal that has rusted and now has a hole in it! Maybe you woke up and there is just no water. Whatever the reason, a proper diagnosis is in order. A technicial will check that your pump equipment has power supplied and that the pressure switch or other control equipment is working properly. They will also perform electrical checks of the submersible pump motor & wire. Once they have an understanding of the failure they can either make repairs to the surface equipment and get the water turned on. For many situations the problem is on the surface with a bad switch or failed control box. For some situations, however, the problem is much deeper - literally! In those cases the submersible well pump must be removed from deep in the ground to repair the problem.

Most Submersible well pumps in the Napa Valley are installed at depths of over 150’ in depth. The combined weight of the pump, wire, pipe and the water in the pipe are often over 150 pounds. For deep wells with large pumps and piping, the weight can be many tons! Between the weight of the equipment, the water and minerals and the potential for danger, we typically do not pull wells by hand anymore. With this in mind submersible well pumps are installed or removed from your well using a “pump truck” or a crane. This equipment need access to within a few feet of the well and an access road free of trees, branches and landscaping. Many homeowners do not realize that access to the well site needs to be preserved to ensure the submersible well pump can be replaced. In some cases very large cranes can be utilized, but this can easily double or triple the expenses involved. To ensure both fast and cost effective service for your well pump, keep access to the site open with branches and brush cleared. If a lawns or muddy areas must be traveled across, most pump companies will use tread matts or plywood to minimize damage to the lawn and provide traction so the equipment will not get stuck.

After locating and setting the pump truck up next to your well, the technicians will ensure that the pump is turned off and then disconnect the plumbing and electrical connections from the well pump. Your well will not be able to provide water for you at this point! If this is a straight forward repair or replacement you will probably not have water for a few hours. If the well casing is dirty or there is evidence that the well casing is deteriorated or damaged, then additional time will be required to clean/repair the well casing, perhaps several extra days. For extended periods of repair Oakville Pump Service helps our customers connect to a neighbor, or in the event that there is no neighbor nearby, we can provide a water trailer with potable water in it.

Now, back to the process of removing or “pulling” the submersible well pump. The well pump, pipe and wire are lifted out of the ground in sections of pipe that are ~20’ long. After each 20’ section of pipe is removed and disconnected, it will be placed horizontally on supports near the well and the wire will be spooled/coiled up as it is removed from the well. The removal process can be a very messy process! The water often contains iron, manganese and other minerals that have coated the piping and the wire. These minerals coat the pipe and wire often become dislodged and fall in proximity to the well site.

Once the pipe, wire, check valves and pump are out of the ground, the well is covered and then each component that has been removed is inspected/tested. pump depth, pump manufacturer/model, well depth and depth to water are recorded and notes made about of the equipment that was removed from the well. At this point we have a discussion with the customer to help them understand what our technicians found during removal/inspection. We help our customers understand what went wrong and the best way to move forward with consideration for budget, quality, warranty and longevity in mind. If there are any improvements in technology available we will explain those improvements and make recommendations accordingly.

Once we have agreed on a plan with the customer and the new/repaired components are ready, it is time for the equipment to be reinstalled. A small amount of NSF rated chlorine is put into the well, the equipment rinsed/cleaned off and the process is then reversed to reinsert the pump, pipe and wire in the well. Pump in first, then pipe section by pipe section the assembly is lowered into the well with the electrical wire carefully secured to the pipe. The well pump electrical is reconnected and the submersible well pump is then started and checked for proper operation.

Remember all those minerals and deposits on the pipe, wire and pump we mentioned during the removal process? Well, those are also in the well and they have been disturbed! After the new equipment has been reinstalled into the well, the water from the well is often a dark red, black or brown. The pump is turned on but this water is not directed into the piping network or tanks, this dirty water is flushed to an appropriate place until the water runs clear and clean again! The chlorine that was put in the well mixed with the water as the submersible pump and equipment was reinserted. This chlorine works to ensure that the well and submersible pump equipment is clean and ready for use. The chlorine is removed and neutralized during the flushing process. During the well flushing process the technicians will be working to clean up the site and restoring it to the original condition as much as is possible. The technicians will also be working on implementing other checks and repairs to other equipment such as the pressure switch, pressure tank(s) or control box while the well is being flushed. When the water is clear, they will reconnect the well to your piping system, verify water is flowing appropriately and the project is finished!

HOW CAN I REDUCE THE COST OF MY SUBMERSIBLE WELL PUMP REPLACEMENT OR SERVICE CALL?

The best way to reduce the cost of a service call or equipment replacement is for you to have as much information available when you call for a service technician. Describe the problem in detail with information about when the problem started, what you have done to correct the problem and if there was any recent occurrence that coincided with the problem such as a power outage, work on your water pipes or electrical system in your home. It is also extremely helpful for homeowners to keep the following information in their records: pump model, pump depth, size & type of pipe, size of wire, depth to water, well casing type and diameter, drillers report. This information is vital if you are calling a company that you have not done business with before as it allows them to bring appropriate replacement components on the initial visit and save you money!

If you want to reduce the cost of ownership of your system, make sure you are putting quality materials in your well that have been appropriately sized and engineered. A pump from your local hardware store that looks like a great deal, looks like less of a good deal when it fails in short order and it is hundreds of feet in the ground. Using the wrong size wire or wrong type of well pump can result in increased energy consumption or shortened lifespan of the pump. Properly installed components will last longer and provide a much lower cost of ownership by reducing maintenance, energy use and hassle!

How Long Should my well pump Last?

Industry averages for residential submersible well pumps show that the MTBF (mean time between failure) is 5-7 years. That being said, how the pump is installed can be critical to a long life. The installer needs to ensure that the pump is sized properly for the well, is not dropped or damaged before being installed and is operating within the minimum/maximum head requirements dictated by the manufacturer. In addition, the proper wire size for supplying electricity to the motor must be installed and proper motor cooling needs to be ensured. Yes, the pump is submerged in water, but in many cases the water in proximity to the motor is not circulating sufficiently to meet the motor manufacturers cooling flow rates. Fortunately, the solution is an inexpensive flow sleeve which extends the motor life of your pump for many years to come. In addition, motor protection should be installed on the surface. One of the biggest factors affecting the longevity of your well pump is power quality. Low/high voltages and flickering power outages can cause damage to the submersible well pump’s motor. Motor protection involves using motor control devices that protect your pump from run- dry conditions, low/high voltage, power surges or rapid cycling. Symcom/Littlefuse and Franklin Electric both manufacture great pump/motor protection devices for our industry.

OPS is not average, pumps we install frequently last 10 or more years!

What are the maintenance requirement for my water system?

Most water pump equipment requires very little maintenance. For submersible well pump systems the best thing is to ensure that the well site is cleared of weeds and protected from damage by tractors or landscaping equipment. Chemicals should not be stored or dumped near the well! There also other components to your well system such as the pressure switch, control box and pressure tank. This area should be kept clean and free of debris. The pressure tank should be checked approximately every year to ensure it has an appropriate air charge and the pressure switch/electrical boxed checked to be sure than insects are not intruding.

Your water system may include other components such as storage tanks, booster pumps or water filters. Storage tanks and booster pumps require very little maintenance and care. Again, the best thing is to ensure that growth, weeds and leave litter are cleaned away and that the tank lids are properly secured. Filter equipment typically has recommended intervals to add specified chemicals or change cartridges or other consumables. Please refer to the manufacturers specific information for maintenance of your filter equipment.

WHY DO I HAVE LOW WATER PRESSURE?

 Your water pressure may be low for several different reasons.

1. You may be connected to a city water supply that does not have pressure that is high enough for your household needs. You may be able to contact the city to discuss your problem, or install a pressure boosting system if the city is unable to raise your pressure.

2. The piping to your house may be too small, a valve may be partially closed or your piping may have iron/mineral deposits inside which present a significant restriction to the flow of water. When this is the case, water will usually have very good flow and pressure for the first second or so then quickly taper off. The solution can be as simple as opening a valve or as complex as cleaning the deposits and scale from your existing piping or even replacing your piping.

3. If you have your own well and pump then the pressure could be low for one or several reasons. The well or booster pump could be in need of repair/replacement or the pressure switch that controls how much pressure you have is not adjusted or functioning properly. Lastly, your well or well pump may not be not yielding enough water to supply your needs.

WHY DO I KEEP RUNNING OUT OF WATER?

Equipment failure: A component in your well pump, tank fill system or pressure booster pump has failed and the equipment is not capable of delivering water.

You are using more water than your well or pump is capable of producing: Your well/pump can only produce a given amount of water in a day. If the demand for water is higher than the water you have available, you will run out of water.

Customers often ask if drought is contributing to the lack of water. Drought can be one contributing factor, but there are others that are equally influential:

Landscaping water demands change over time as a property develops. Many properties start with limited landscaping & gardening and, as time progresses, landscaping is added, gardens & water features are put in and caretaker houses or granny units constructed. Each of these additions place larger and larger demands on the water system while the well/submersible well pump that supplies water has not increased output.

Age of system: Water systems include components such as pipes, pumps, tanks, landscaping valves, sprinklers and emitters, each with the potential to age/degrade. Degradation leads to leaks in the piping, sprinkler malfunction & landscaping valves leaking. Submersible well pumps typically reduce output as they age/wear. Old wells that have metal pipe going down to the well pump often have holes in the metal pipe caused by corrosion! Wells frequently show signs of age by, you guessed it, decreasing output as minerals plug up the well screen and gravel pack. When you combined the possibility for increased leakage with decreased output, the combined result is water shortage.

Landscaper: Many of our customers utilize a landscaping service to ensure that their landscaping needs are properly taken care of. In order to keep their customers happy, many landscapers simply boost the watering times significantly to ensure the lawn & shrubs stay green and the roses are blooming. To ensure your landscaper isn’t overwatering and knows what they’re doing, try asking:

How many gallons per minute does each of my landscaping zones flow?

What are the watering times for each of the zones?

How much water does my landscaping use every day?

Do you know how much water is available from my well?

How much water do my grass, roses, shrubs actually NEED?

Its great news if your landscaper can answer these questions intelligently and in a reasonable amount of time (a day or two). If your landscaper doesn’t understand the questions, doesn’t have answers and doesn’t get back to you, it is likely that large amounts of water are being wasted on overwatering and it may be time for you to find a landscaper that has an in-depth knowledge of their trade.

Oakville Pump Service has helped many of our valued customers successfully manage their available water resources. Please contact us if you need help implementing a solution to your water shortage.

WHERE DOES MY WATER COME FROM?

Your water more than likely comes from one of two basic sources. Water is generally categorized as surface water coming from lakes, runoff, streams or rivers; or as ground water which originates from springs or wells.

Your water is provided by either you on your own property or your local water company or municipality. Municipalities generally rely on surface water, which is in lakes or streams. Surface water is typically softer with a low mineral content and usually must be treated for bacterial contamination since the rivers, lakes and streams have some level of bacteria present.

Rural homeowners generally rely on wells or springs which provide water from the ground or, in our lingo “ground water”. Ground water typically has higher mineral content and is, in general, ‘harder’ containing minerals that can leave white, brown or black stains. Even though it typically has higher mineral content, ground water is generally free of pathogenic organisms. Ground water was surface water at some point! Surface water from streams, lakes and rivers slowly seeps down through the root zone and down into the aquifer(s) over long periods of time and in so doing the bacteria are filtered by the layers of earth& sand or simply age and die. As the water moves through various strata, it dissolves many of the minerals present in the earth. Places where the surface water quickly penetrate to the aquifer often have contaminated aquifers because the bacteria have a quick path to the ground water.

My well pump does not build up to pressure and turn off, what’s wrong?

Well pumps typically operate by using a pressure sensing device such as a pressure switch or pressure transducer. This device tells the pump to turn on when the pressure is low and to turn off when pressure has increased to a sufficient level. Pressure is an indirect measurement of water usage. Normally when you use water the pressure decreases and then the pump turns on. When the water usage stops, the pressure builds and the pump turns off. If you pump is not building up pressure and runs constantly then you have a leak somewhere or the pump is not pumping sufficient flow/pressure (worn pump). If there is a leak, the leak may be in the piping around the house, but it would have to be significant to be easily noticeable. The leak can also be in the pipe that the pump is hanging on down in your well. This pipe is sometimes made of metal and corrosion holes develop after many years of service. This causes much of the water being pumped to be diverted back into the well and can result in inadequate pressure development and the pump simply runs all the time. A leak in the pipe down the well can often be heard by listening at the well head for a spraying noise when the pump is running. It is important to differentiate the spraying from the humming noise the pump makes or any trickling/dripping sounds that water flowing into the well casing makes.

If the pump has been in service for more than 7 or 8 years and the well has sand or other minerals that cause abrasion or deposits, the pump could very well be worn out or plugged up. The plugging or wear decreases in the efficiency and leads to a decrease in the volume and pressure of water produced by the pump.

If the leak is down the well or the pump is worn out, the pump and pipe will all need to be removed from the well. When you go through the expense of removing the submersible well pump, ensure that everything your contractor put back down your well is up will last another 10 years! If inspection determines that there is a hole in the pipe, we would recommend replacing the pipe with a metal pipe alternative that does not corrode and ensure your pipe lasts for many years! The wire and pump also need to be closely inspected & replaced if found to be defective or deteriorating.

toilets and faucets sputter air/water. Today the water pressure is down to a trickle. What's wrong? 

The problem is likely one of two things:

1) You may have an older style galvanized tank and the air volume control is not working properly, meaning that the tank actually has too much air in it. This excess air eventually starts to come out of the pipes causing the spitting and sputtering you are referring to. This air volume control would need to be repaired to allow the excess air to vent. The air volume control is located on the side of your galvanized pressure tank. These often become clogged with minerals and stop venting excess air injected at the well.

2) The water production capacity of your well has diminished, this means that sometimes the pump removes all the water from your well and then gets some air in the lines. Sometimes the well pump can be set deeper in the well, the well can be cleaned to restore production or a large storage tank installed to help meet water demands. Wells/pumps that are in this category should have a low water device installed to eliminate/reduce any damage that can happens to submersible well pumps when they run “dry”. If this is your specific problem, it is likely time that you think about cleaning your well to restore its production capacity or think about installing a water storage tank!

When I start using water my pump begins clicking and the pressure gauge quickly oscillates as the pump turns off and on very rapidly.

Turn off the power to your pump! You have a problem that we call rapid cycling that will damage your pump equipment. There can be several causes, but we will refer to the most common cause of rapid cycling: your pressure tank is waterlogged.

Your pressure tank is located above ground and is designed to hold and deliver pressurized water. Your pressure tank provides an air cushion for the pump to pressurize the stored water against when it fills the pressure tank. When you start using water, the air cushion pushes the water stored in the pressure tank out. When the water pressure drops significantly, the pump turns on to re-pressurize the water/refill the pressure tank and turns off again when the pressure has been restored to an acceptable level.

Old style pressure tanks allowed the water and the air in the pressure tank to contact each other. This results in the air being absorbed into the water just as oxygen is absorbed into your bloodstream. Over time the air volume decreases and needs to be replenished. A small amount of air is injected each time the pump turns on to help maintain the air cushion in the galvanized tank.

When the air injection system fails, the air cushion is depleted to the point that there is just water in the pressure tank, and since water does not compress, the instant you start using water the pump turns on. The pump supplies more water/ pressure than can be used at a single fixture and thus the pressure spikes because water does not compress. The pump turns off, the pressure quickly drops, the pump turns on, pressure spikes, pump turns off. This process can happen several times a second and burn up the controls and motor for your pump!

New style pressure tanks have been developed that have an air bladder inside which is pressurized. This air bladder ensures that the air does not dissolve into the water. After many years of service, the internal bladder may become damaged causing the air/water to come into contact and result in the rapid cycling scenario above. With new style pressure tanks, the entire pressure tank must be replaced.

After correcting the problem with your pressure tank air injection system or replacing your bladder type pressure tank, it is absolutely imperative that your pressure switch be replaced. Rapid cycling often damages the contact points/diaphragm. In addition, you pump & control box should be checked for proper operation. Devices are available that detect/stop and stop the rapid cycle condition before it damages expensive pumping equipment.

Why should I pay extra money for the additional ground wire or a surge protector for my pump, when my well pump is already grounded in the aquifer?

The very fact that your pump is located in the aquifer is the reason surge protection it is so essential! The electrical code that requires the pump to be grounded makes perfect sense when understood in the context of power surges.

The wires that deliver power to your pump's motor get power from the local utility. If there is a power surge/spike, the high voltage in the spike will actually go through the power lines to your pump and then arc out through the motor insulation to the aquifer if there is no proper ground or surge arrestor installed.

To prevent damage to your submersible pump motor, the ground wire to the aquifer is used to connect to the electrical ground system of your electrical network and to a properly installed surge protector. When a power surge comes, the high voltage is diverted to the path of least resistance through the surge arrestor. This path is directly to the aquifer through the ground wire instead of blowing apart the insulation in your pump's windings! This question highlights the fact that a properly installed $100 surge arrestor on your pump can save $2000 or more to pull a pump and replace the motor!

Why would I need or want a water tank or storage system?

There are several very good reasons for storage tanks:

 1. Storage tanks provide a reserve of water that can be used during high demand periods when low yield wells are not able to meet short term high demands. 

2. County ordinances often require storage tanks in certain areas to ensure an adequate supply of water in the case of a fire. These ordinances come into play when property is being built on, remodeled, etc…

3. Storage tanks give a buffer capacity of water to offset times when your well pump needs servicing or replacement.

4. Storage tanks make some methods of water treatment (air stripping and circulation loop/ polishing filters) viable & effective.

 5. If you have property with some good hillside/elevation, a storage tank is the ideal solution to a very simple water system that can be filled with a well/spring and use gravity to supply your water pressure needs. This is the most reliable type of system for two reasons: First, gravity never fails and second, this type of system has the fewest number of components to go wrong! Pressure switches, pressure tanks, air volume controls, & their inevitable need for replacement evaporate with this type of system because they are un-necessary. This type of system is the most energy efficient/green system available since the water is pumped once, pumped very efficiently (if sized properly) with no need for VFD’s to gives almost perfectly constant pressure.

Storage tanks do not solve an outright water shortage. For example: If you use 5000 gallons a week to supply your home and garden and the well/spring can only produce 2000 gallons a week. In these cases, storage tanks only delay the consequences of a water supply shortage and enable the delivery of bulk water from a water truck. If your well or spring is not able to keep up with your demand, more storage tanks will never compensate for the need to clean the well, redevelop the spring or look for additional water supply. Storage tanks do not create water, they only store what you have available for when you need it! 

Will a storage tank solve the problem of a low production well?

For you to know if a storage tank system will help in your situation there are three required pieces of information:

1)     How much does your well produce on a daily basis? To answer this question you will need to have a well test performed on your well to know what it is capable of producing.

2)     What is your average daily water demand? You may have historical information via a water meter or other means. If you don’t have any hard data, then it is time to install a water meter or make some estimates. Typical use is about 100-150 gallons per person per day. Some people use less water, some use more. This usage includes water for cooking, cleaning, showering, laundry, etc… but they don’t include water usage for washing the car, watering the garden or sprinkling the lawn. For landscaping needs, consult a good landscaper for a good estimate for the amount of water needed for landscaping.

3)     The highest rate of flow required. Some houses have fire sprinklers that need 50 GPM to operate! This can also be determined by the largest flow rate on any given vineyard or landscaping zone.

How big should a storage tank be? As a rule of thumb, it is a good idea to have about two times as much water available as you will potentially use. If you plan to use 1200 gallons per day, then a 2500 gallon tank would be appropriate. This means that seasonal changes in water availability won’t impact your ability to meet demand, and you’ll have some water in reserve. It’s also important to remember that installation of a storage tank requires the installation of a booster pump to re-pressurize the water from that storage tank and should also include installation of low water protection for the submersible well pump to avoid damage to the pump from running dry.

Storage tank example 1: A property has a well that is capable of producing 2.5 gallons per minute with an available supply of 3600 gallons per day (2.5 GPM * 1440 min/day). This property has 4 people living on it full time, a small garden and modest landscaping that are on an automatic watering timer with 8 zones that each run 20 minutes. The landscaper indicates that the maximum flow on any zone is 7 gallons per minute. The total demand of 1520 gallons per day comes from adding 400 gallons/day for the people and 1120 Gallons/day for landscaping (8*20*7). Since there is more than two times the water available (3600 Gallons) than the amount needed (1520 Gallons) a 2500 Gallon storage tank will help immensely. A booster pump should be selected that will supply 15 GPM to meet the instantaneous demands of the house & irrigation.

Storage tank example 2: A property has a well that produces 10 GPM with an available amount of water of 14,400 gallons per day. Current plans are for a weekend estate for use by 2-4 people with extensive gardening, small vineyard, landscaping, fountains and a pool. The total demand comes to 12,000 gallons per day (in the summer) with the largest irrigation block being 20 GPM for the proposed vineyard. In conjunction with installation of 20,000 gallons of water storage, the water usage needs to decrease by removing landscaping from the plans or revising the landscaping with drought tolerant plants to reduce the water usage. It may also be advisable, since the vineyard is in the planning stages, to utilize a vineyard management company familiar dry farming practices and vineyard layout. A booster pump with the capacity to move 60 Gallons per minute should be selected. Even though the landscaping only needs 20 GPM, the fire sprinkler specifications for the house require 50 GPM @ 60 PSI.

Does my pressure tank increase my water pressure?

Pressure tanks are used to hold water at a higher pressure, but a pressure tank by itself cannot increase the pressure in your water system. Pressure tanks work in conjunction with pumps. The well or booster pump moves water at high pressure into the pressure tank until the pressure builds to the point that the control system turns the pump off. A check valve prevents water from flowing back through the pump into your well/storage tank and the pressure tank holds pressurized water for you to use on demand. Pressure tanks are also used to absorb water surges that can potentially damage pipes and cause undue noise.

My water stops then starts after a short delay

There are 3 basic components that work in conjunction to provide pressurized water: the pump, pressure switch and pressure tank. In many systems the pump pushes the water out of your well/storage tank and stores it in a pressure tank. When the pressure is high enough in the system, the pressure switch shuts the pump off and a charge of pressurized water is kept in the pressure tank. As you utilize water, the pressure slowly drops and the pressure switch turns on the pump to recharge the pressure tank.

This problem is most likely happening because the pressure switch is set at a pressure that is too low and/or the charge in your bladder type pressure tank is too high. This means that the pressure tank must exhaust its entire water charge before the pump is turned on giving a few seconds where no water is available.

With well/booster pump off and the system drained, the pressure in a bladder type pressure tank should be set 3 PSI below the turn on pressure of the pressure switch. For example: If your pressure switch is set to turn the pump on at 30 PSI and off at 50 PSI, the pressure in the drained bladder type pressure tank should be set at 27 PSI.